Creatures of Habit

Do you think about which side of the sidewalk you walk on? Or does it come naturally? The Japanese walk on the left side, so I either have to THINK about moving to the left (I’m getting better) or run into endless amounts of people, and there are a lot of people here. Quick – which side of the steering wheel is the turn signal on?  Right or left?  In Japan, the turn signal is on the right side of the steering wheel, and the windshield wipers are on the left, opposite of the States. So every time I want to make a turn, I end up washing the windows. When you cross the street, which direction you look?  Left.  Do you think about it?  No.  Because we’ve done it a bazillion times and that’s where the cars are coming from. In the Japanese drive on the left, the cars come from the right.  So when I cross the street now, I look both ways, five times because I can’t remember.  If your friend’s driving you somewhere and your approaching their car, which side do you go to to get in? The right side. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve walked to the right side, only to be politely told by the driver to go to the other side (steering wheel is on the right here).  The strangest habit that I’ve encountered is responding in Portuguese/Spanish when someone starts speaking to me in Japanese. I lived in Brazil for 7 months and SoCal for 5 years, so I guess my mind is trained to think “ah! Someone is speaking to me in another language! Respond in Portuguese/Spanish! Do it now!”  I don’t respond in full sentences or anything, but I’ve caught myself saying “si” (yes) or “e” (and), which is just weird.  The last, and most annoying one of all.  In Japan, the toilet is not in the bathroom.  It has its own room:

I’ve walked into the bathroom SO many times wanting to use the toilet, only to turn around to head to the little toilet room.  It’s interesting what the mind does for you without having to consciously think about it, until you move to another country.

My $10,000 Apartment

Well, it’s not really $10,000. It was 862,400 yen, which at today’s exchange rate is $10,646.  I’ll round down.  But the point is, I needed $10,646, cash, just to move into my apartment.

Let’s break it down.  One month’s rent is about $2500, yes a little high, but for Japan, it isn’t that high. A “cheap” place would have been $2000, so I figure I’d spend a little more and live a little better. Plus since the yen is ridiculously strong right now, it increases the price by about 20%. So, first month’s rent is, $2500, what about the other $7500??  Well, part of the Japanese culture is that there is a little job for everyone, they aren’t an, “I can do it myself” culture, which means you have to go through an agent to find an apartment, there is no craiglsist to look at, owners don’t post classified ads for all to read.  For their services, agents get one month’s rent, plus tax.  So that’s the second $2500. The third $2500 is the security deposit, understandable, hopefully I get it back. The last $2500 is the rip-off part.  It’s the “key” or “gift” money that you give to the owner as a “thank you” for letting you rent their apartment. They pocket that, you never see it again. But, that’s the culture.  Everyone does it.  The last little bit is renter’s insurance, about $250 for the entire time I stay at the place. Not too bad.  So, $2500 for first month’s rent + $2500 agent fee + $2500 deposit + $2500 key money + $250 renters insurance is about my $10,646.  Just to move in.

Needless to say, it’s very common for Japanese to live with their parents until they’re 30. That gives them enough time to get a good job, just so they can get their own place.

filipino girl

I was talking to this Filipino girl at a bar…

She’s 28 years old, she lives with her family, and there are 20 people in her house. She dropped out of college to make money for her family, but wants to go back. Her English is fantastic.  She takes a bus 2 hours each way to work in Manila. I didn’t catch the name of her hometown, but this commute is obviously worth it for her.  She told me the average person makes 10,000 Philippine pesos a month, about $230.  I had already spent more than that in the last few days in Manila.  She asked if I made more money than that and she raised her hand a little, indicating a higher amount. I raised my hand to the ceiling. She’s never been outside the Philippians. I asked her if there was one place in the world she wanted to go, where would it be.  She said Rome to see the Basilica and the Pope.  The Philippians are a very Catholic nation.  She asked me where I would go and I said Nepal and Tibet to see the center of Buddhism. She was a very happy person. The last thing I told her before I left was that I hope she makes it to Rome one day.

We live in very different worlds.

macau ‘aint no vegas

If Vegas is sin city, Macau is sinless city.  If Vegas is an R rated movie, Macau is PG.  If Vegas what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas, you can tell everyone what happened in Macau.  If the Mormons decided to open up a gambling resort, well… you get the idea.  Are the casinos in Macau beautiful?  Yes.  They are some of the most grandiose buildings I’ve ever seen.  Does Macau have magnificent shopping?  Yes.  There are Louis Vuitton stores next to Dolce & Gabbana next to Prada.  Does Macau have gambling?  Yes.  Obviously.  So what’s the problem?  The feel.  It’s too nice and clean!  Vegas has a certain grime to it, the clash of everything from Christian Dior boutique with illegal immigrants selling call girls outside.  I love walking the strip in Vegas.  Going from one casino to the next, eating and drinking all the way, never being more than 50 ft. from a casino.  Macau is very sprawled out.  You can walk from one hotel to the next, but between them is… nothing.  Just everyday city streets with a few open shops.  And the absolute strangest part of Macau is the noise level on the gambling floors.  It’s too silent.  When I walk into a Vegas casino, my senses are overloaded.  The sounds of coins hitting the slot machine tray, the low roar of people winning and losing their life savings, the flashing lights, the random group of obnoxious strangers getting back from a club at 8am.  These are the sounds of Vegas.  Not Macau, it’s silent on the gambling floor.  The other mind blowing aspect of Macau is that you can’t drink alcohol on the gambling floor.  There are bars at the casinos, of course, but you can’t bring your drink with you to play blackjack.  The casinos in Macau have carts that bring around all you can drink water, milk, tea, orange juice and tomato juice, but no alcohol, and I think that’s the fundamental problem.  Alcohol lowers people’s inhibitions, causing them to take greater risks, winning and losing bigger and bigger amounts, creating a rising level of excitement.  Without the drinks and noise, it’s just not the same.

                  

Galaxy Hotel

Next stop, Monte Carlo.

Casual Dining

I love the casual dining experience in Japan.  And by casual, I mean between fast food and high-end sit down restaurants.  The closest thing I can think of in the States are places that people sit down for a quick bite during lunch, Thai food, Applebees, diners, but it’s different here, and that’s why I like it.  My favorite restaurants are the ones with the vending machine pictures where you order you food before you sit down:

 

In the US, eating is an experience.  In Japan it’s a necessity of life, you eat and move on.  In Japan, you order your food, sit down at long tables next to strangers, have some green tea (free), the server brings you your food and when you’re done, you walk away.  If you’re at a place with a menu, you sit down, with or without a friend, they take your order, the check comes before the meal is over, and always seperate checks if there are multiple people, and when you’re done, you walk to the cash register, pay, and leave.  All prices include tax, there is no tip, so you know exactly how much things cost.  It’s simple and straightforward.  In the US, casual dining is a big production.  You walk into a restaurant, there is a hostess that greets you and she looks at her magical seating chart.  If you’re lucky, she seats you immediately, and then you look over the menu as you wait for the waiter.  Then the waiter does the little spiel about who he/she is, how they’re going to take care of you, what the specials are that their trying to figure out whether or not to put on the menu permanently, etc.  They take your order, the drinks come, some sort of bus boy actually brings you the food, you eat and you’re done.  But have to find the waiter again before getting the check.  If you spot him/her, you do the little “writing of the check” hand gesture, they bring you the bill with a little mint, tell you what a wonderful time it was to serve you in hopes that you leave a bigger tip.  If your party has multiple people, there’s a bunch of confustion about the bill.  How much is the tax?  In Virginia, it’s only 5%, but in California, it’s 10%.  If people don’t know the tax, the bill is short and the situation get’s worse.  But, that’s generally how American dining is.  I prefer the Japanese way.

In all seriousness, I think the main reason for the difference is the amount of people in Japan, which is a fundamental reason why a lot of things are the way they are here.  If the restaurants don’t move people through the restaurants as fast as they can, there will be too many hungry people waiting in line, and chaos will ensue.